Canon Club

Throw an oyster fork in any direction in this town, and it will inevitably hit a restaurant with a raw bar. Serving icy shellfish platters is so commonplace, it’s hard to imagine there are enough oysters, lobster and crab to fill them all. Yet, I never tire of the delicacy—especially when done right, like at the Canon Club in Beverly Hills.

The tiny jewel-box restaurant is sort of off-the-beaten-path of well-known Cañon Drive, doors away from some of the splashiest restaurants in the Golden Triangle, like Spago, Scarpetta, Bouchon, Mastro’s and the always-teeming Il Pastaio. But that’s exactly what sets this place apart: the intimate hideaway feel, with a friendly and low-key vibe, a stylish yet understated room and a menu that offers just enough without going over the top.

Inside, there’s a bit of an East Coast-meets-West Coast aesthetic. Sit in cozy booths and banquettes under a white-washed slatted wood ceiling, or sip at the small-tiled marble bar. There’s a garage door that opens from the bar to the outdoor tables, so you never feel really separated from the crowd inside. It’s a place as much for a Tuesday night supper as a midweek lunch and easily fills a gap for locals looking for a quick bite or visitors wanting to linger on the quiet sidewalk patio. Like finding a pearl in an oyster, it’s what everyone wants in a neighborhood gem.

A perfect oyster is a thing of beauty. First and foremost, it should be fresh and plump, not mangled at the hands of the shucker. It should be chilled but not too cold, and certainly not warm. The meat should be detached from the muscle for easy eating, and there should be no hint of grit or shell in the brine. And there had better be liquor, or the briny liquid, surrounding the morsel. While Canon Club’s servers could be armed with a bit more information about their oyster selection, at least they know which are superbig and juicy, or which are briny or sweet; and the oysters themselves please. It’s a sign of a chef who knows his shellfish. A seafood plateau and a well-made martini are just about the best things in life, and this charmer does both quite well.

That’s a good omen for chef Edy Lucas’ pescatarian menu. Taking cues from trendsetters like Fishing With Dynamite, Westside Tavern and Joe’s in Venice, all kitchens where he previously worked, Lucas offers a smattering of globally influenced dishes, which are recognizable but elevated with his own twists. He makes good use of a mesquite-fueled grill for items like octopus, which he tosses in salmoriglio, an herb-filled, lemon-garlic-olive oil sauce; or swordfish served sliced with pepperonata and salsa verde, probably my favorite dish on the menu.

There’s sword squid with heirloom tomatoes and kale, which gets a kick from harissa. The hamachi crudo comes with togarashi and fried capers. I love whole fried
fish, and Lucas dips a branzino in tempura batter for a thick, golden-brown coating. Should a meat-eater be in the group, there’s a steak—but only one. A vegetarian could do well with the sides and salads, like beets, goat cheese and avocado, which is just the right speed for this place.

You can see the makings of a great light dinner, here. That just means there will be room for dessert. One night a woman leaving the restaurant leaned over to tell us that we had to order the chocolate mousse cake. Boy, was she right. Sous-Chef Joann Yan created a few fabulous sweets, like the mousse cake topped with wildly addictive crispy chocolate shavings, and a fabulous lemon tart with bruleed peaks on top.

There isn’t too much of anything, and nothing is overly indulgent. It’s all just right. First-time restaurateurs, Albert and Amir Ahobim, a father-son duo who’ve owned this property since it was a parking garage, aren’t trying to reinvent the wheel with Canon Club. Everyone here is earnest and friendly, which goes a long way in this town. That’s what makes this restaurant a different experience from the heavy-hitters in the neighborhood—sometimes you just want a casual night without a lot of fuss, but with a whole lot of oysters.

CANON CLUB
340 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.858.4500

Hours Daily, 11am-10pm
Prices Raw bar, $3.50-$55; small and large plates, $18-$32; sides and salads, $3-$12; dessert, $9-$11

What to Drink
Barman Blake Donaldson’s cocktails are fun and flirty, like the Thai coconut mojito, made with coconut-infused rum, kaffir lime, mint and a sugar cane garnish. Or just go for the decadent caviar martini.

Where to Sit
The big booths in the back are great for groups or for intimate, out-of-the-way dinners for two.

What to Wear
Dress down but still with style. This is Beverly Hills, after all.